I wanted to write that, but somehow forgot when writing the answer. Basically, one compatible with your lever. Oh yes, and it must be an MTB brake caliper, not a road one. Most mechanical brakes only move one pad and that is an inferior design. If you stay with mechanical, suggest using a caliper that has two movable brake pads, even if they are somewhat more expensive. The front brake is more important anyway so it would make more sense to change the front one to hydraulic first (if not both).Īs far as I can see, the bike is ready to accept a post mount caliper. Before that I recommend to compare the investment required with a price of a new (even if second-hand) bike. It would only make sense if you wanted to change the whole braking system (both front and back) to hydraulic. Otherwise the investment will be much larger (hydraulic lines, hydraulic brake lever). They're the main option if you want a silent hub to my awareness.Ĭontrary to the other answer, recommend to use a mechanical brake caliper, when your front one is already a mechanical one. The Stealth hub line by True Precision Components are time-tested, ultra high quality, and reliable, but expensive.
Shimano had an old line of them called "Silent Clutch," then also a newer iteration called "Scylence" that they hyped and then cancelled before widely releasing. Different companies have made them at different times and have their own buzzwords for the "technology" used. "Silent clutch" is the most common name for click-free freehubs.
If not you'll need a new housing, and there are many questions about that. If the cable is still moving in the housing freely, all you need is a new brake cable because the one you've got is frayed. Ones that would work: TRP Spyke, Tektro Aries, Shimano BR-M416A or BR-M375 (or any other Shimano mechanical brake caliper that has an "M" before the number part of the model number). The front caliper is a random low-end OEM one. The cable pull needed will be "mountain", "v-brake", or "long-pull", all different names for the same thing, but it's the more common type so it might not have any of those names in the description. That might sound specific, but the vast majority of mechanical disc calipers meet those criteria. The location is simply the best spot available after the ideal suspension has been designed.Almost any mechanical disc brake caliper will work as long as it's not a road or short pull model and will also work with a generic 160mm rear IS adapter like the one you have. NOTE 2: After discussing with various motorsport engineers, it seems the most critical factor in caliper location comes down to suspension geometry. To allow for the engine to be further back (and thus better weight distribution, the rack may be found up front, forcing the brakes to be closer to the center of the car. The calipers will typically be located on the opposite side of the steering rack. NOTE: An important factor in brake caliper location for the front brakes is the location of the steering rack. What determines the location for brake calipers? Why are some brake calipers towards the front, while others are towards the rear? What factors influence brake caliper placement? Location could be dependent upon weight distribution, aerodynamics, suspension geometry and packaging, the vehicle purpose, cost, and aesthetics.
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